My wife Sarah and I just spent the most amazing 1o nights at Msandile River Lodge, and in many ways, it was way too short. From the initial email contact with Frank (one of the owners), to our checkout and drop-off at the airport, everything felt like we were dealing with friends.
While not in the national park itself, the lodge is in a very enviable position on the banks of the Luangwa River. One short boat ride, usually past pods of placid and somewhat curious hippos later, you are climbing into your jeep to see what the park has to offer. No need to wait at the main gate checking paperwork. This might not seem like a big deal, but every minute inside the park can offer something remarkable, and the boat ride itself is a joy each time you do it. Make sure you look to your right on the morning drive across to catch the sunrise.
The lodge and camp are wonderful. Open and bright, with plenty of trees to attract a variety of bird and animal life. We had sunbirds, kingfishers, bee eaters, woodpeckers, owls, and a number of other small birds all within view of our chalet. We had hippo and elephant wander through camp at night to feast on the grasses and leaves. Night watchmen are on hand to ensure nothing serious happens. Safety is always stressed and paramount. The rooms are clean, well-appointed, and flush toilets and running water are always appreciated.
The staff were friendly, knowledgeable, and more importantly, just wonderful people. Camp manager Musa greeted us with a smile every time he saw he us. Chris the bartender always took time to ask about our day or if we needed anything. Ellis, the man who was our waiter for the entire time, had the biggest smile I've ever seen, and was always quick with a warm hello or a friendly ear. Doug, the main chef, was quick to confirm, with a smile of course, that no food to served to me had mayonnaise, as per my dietary request. And the food was plentiful and excellent. I've stayed at 10 different safari lodges throughout Africa, and the staff here were by the far the best I've encountered.
Frank and Sabine, and the other camp manager Chloe were also at the lodge during the end of our stay. The joy they have being in the bush, and the love they have for the staff is obvious, which is great to see. We sat and chatted with them throughout our stay, sharing stories, sharing laughs. We had a few game drives with them as well, giving each other photography tips, or frantically trying to identify a bird before our guide could. Frank even drove us to the airport on our departure, they are that hands on.
Our guide was Longi, a jovial young fella who was an expert behind the wheel with a very sharp eye for spotting wildlife both near and far. As we had a few game drives just on our own, he asked what we wanted to see and tailored the drives to give us the best chances to see things - certain birds prefer certain areas, that sort of thing. During night drives, we were joined by Sam, Thom, and Paul as spotters using a spotlight. Each one knowledgeable, friendly, sharp, and quick to help identify sights and sounds. A safari can be completely ruined by a guide, and the guides at Msandile are top class.
I'm reluctant to say our sightings were incredible because no sighting is guaranteed. The park itself is a sight to behold though. So many different terrains in such a concentrated place, it was almost like we had gone to several different locations at once. Because of the diversity of environment, there is a great diversity to the animal life as well. And the animals we did see all looked so healthy. It really is a park like no other.
I cannot recommend Msandile River Lodge enough. Whether you plan on staying one night or ten, or even more, you will not be disappointed. The only disappointment will be when you have to pack up your suitcases to leave.
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